- Understand the scene for its contrast evaluation
- If you can, choose the right film for the scene: 400 ISO for contrasted scenes, 100 ISO for low contrasted scenes; trust me: may be that sounds strange, but 400 ISO films contains greater silver alogenure cristals rather than 100 ISO films and this is useful for contrasted scenes; instead normal 100 ISO or lower are better for clouds or shadows scenes (than scenes with low contrast) to increase the contrast in the film capture.
- Expose (almost always) for shadows (following the Ansel Adams suggestion from Zonal System, choosing a textured shadow to pose in Zone III)
- If you cannot find some that otherwise point your external exposimeter to the ground every time you shot a photography in an external (not light controlled) scene (that is: when you are outside a photographic studio... ;-)! than, may be always!)
- A film should be developed with "precision":
- choose the best developer you have got for that film (looking always to the negative as a robust bridge that bring you toward the final print)
- develop the film for the correct time
- use the correct number and frequency of film tank inversions
- use constant temperature (about from 20° to 24° Celsius grade)
Than forget Kodak and Agfa indications regarding times and developers. Use well know Internet source as: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php and http://filmdev.org/ . Remember that information in that sites are really useful only if intended as "starting point".
Keep a notebook with your own notes about each developer session with diluitions, temperature, time and FINAL IMPRESSIONS that will be more accurate when you'll start to print in darkroom your B&W prints.
Currently I have following developers: Kodak D76, Kodak HC-110, Rodinal One Shot (R09), Spur SD2525, Tetenal Ultrafin Plus. Also I have some pure chemicals for "special" receipes as the discontinued Kodak D73 and many others...
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